Once in a while I stumbled over clothes or accessories made from this obviously French fabric: toile de Jouy. Lately I saw these accessories for spring 2010 by Wunderkind:
Mostly I’ve seen this fabric as ubholstery, tapestry or as covers for cushions etc. and always asked myself what is these fabric’s history as it seems to have a certain status. I found out some suprinsing facts via Arte’s Karambolage.
These fabric is indeed a very classical one from France but was invented by a German. You might even know his name if you have ever used Paris’ Metro. There is a station called “Oberkampf” and this is the last name of that German man from Württemberg, a part of southern Germany who began to produce toile de Jouy in Jouy-en-Josas around 1760.
The paintings on this fabric are by Jean-Baptiste Huet and presented what French aristocrats imagined when they thought of nature and the simple life in the 18th century.
Toile de Jouy was immediatly a success. The French aristocracy loved it and used it mainly for home decoraction where it is still to be found. Oberkampf himself was even decorated by Napoleon for his successful fabric company since Napoleon wanted to have strong French fabric industry to slow down the Englisch dominace in this field.
Here some examples from the old times:
Some more exaples from the fashion world:
Christian Lacroix for Jean Patou hand-painted toile de jouy cocktail dress, 1987. By Francois Hallard courtesy of Condé Nast Archive
From left to right: Kumiko Watari (2009), Paul Smith, Kumiko Watari (2009)
Christian Dior cocktail dress via vanityfair.de