I followed NY Fashion Week for Spring 2011 more or less randomly. There were some collections I liked but nothing which really hit me. But Rodarte was different: their collection convinced me more than totally. It was breathtaking, damn beautiful and absolutly sophisticated.
Why you may ask since I already red a couple of comments on the article about Rodart’s collection by Cathy Horyn judging the collection as ugly and awful.
Well, the following aspects will open your eyes:
The fabrics are the first reason. Rodart presented a big variety of brown coloured fabrics with wood like textures bringing the woods alife in an artistic way. These fabrics were completed by blue coloured fabrics with geometrical patterns similar to traditional Japanese ones. They were like complements to the wood fabrics, terminating and completing them at the same time.
The whole combination was brought to life through the flower fabrics with their references to Delftware and Chinese porcelain. And in between: some delicate leaf patterned lace adding a fragile and playful twist to the collection.
The second aspect is the cuts. They were very clear, almost minimal and defined. They made it posssible that the patterns could complement each other without ending in chaos.
The cuts as such were also significant: cropped, vase shaped jackets with cutouts around the shoulders and accented coattails jutting out from the hips, high waist trousers with sculptural pleats and symmetrical layered skirts. The resulting shapes were unusual but not disturbing, rather calming through their clear and nearly severe look.
The shoes are the third aspect. They were like the inner child: very playful with a slight hint to the extreme. They did not totally fit to the collection and were more like an own part.
It was the same with the last part, the golden goddesses with gladiatore references and opulent fabrics – also very interesting but again more a story of their own.
In sum, a collection which is telling its own story(s) but with lots of space for the own fantasy.
Picture source: elle.de